DO NOT GREASE THE CORE!
IF you grease the core then it will stall the engine when you shift.
Time for some exercise. Climb in the boat with the other small pieces that came with the cable.
You will also need a 7/16" open end wrench, an adjustable wrench, lock pliers, a new small cotter pin and a beer for the drunk guy.
Thread the stainless tube into the end of the cable all the way and then back it off two turns.
Lock it down with the 7/16" nut.
Now slip the little anchor thing into the plastic tube and slip it over the end of the core.
Install and tighten the little, little set screws.
Take the spiral wrap and install it on the sheath down low where the cable gets close to the exhaust pipe.
With the control in forward, install, temporarily, the cable to the shaft plate mechanism.
This will help hold the slide and shift shaft in the forward position for installing the drive.
Exercise time......... jump out of the boat and make sure that you have cleaned off all the old gasket material from
both the drive AND the bellhousing.
Glue (with bellows adhesive) the new water passage o-ring and the large u-joint hole o-ring into place.
Place the new drive gasket on the studs of the bellhousing.
Get this....... use NO SEALER. That's right. It KILLS us Mercruiser mechanics when we see Silicone sealant
squishing out from the drive gasket. It's not right. DON'T use sealer!
Take some 101 grease and put some on the drive mounting studs and on the large o-ring.
Let's inspect the drive before we install it.....
Do the splines look clean? Have you greased the cross bearings?
Take a good look at the lower shift shaft and make sure in moves free.
Take some Mercruiser Spline grease and grease up the splined shaft.
Before the drive is installed, think..... is it time for a new water pump?
Is the drive ready to be resealed?
Does your drunk friend happen to have an engine alignment tool?
The engine alignment should always be tested before the drive is reinstalled. Always.
The Mercruiser tool is about $100.00
Now your ready to install the drive. Your drunk friend MIGHT be able to help you.
First place the drive into forward gear. To do this, turn the little shift shaft clockwise
as viewed from the top. While turning the little shaft clockwise, turn the prop COUNTERCLOCKWISE until it locks.
The drive MUST be in FULL forward before and during installation.
IF the drive comes out of forward while you are struggling with it, then stop and put it back into forward.
IF the drunk guy accidentally bumps the prop, then recheck to make sure it's in forward.
Also, make sure that the little bellhousing shift lever roller is in the fork of the slide!
All of this HAS to be perfect before installing the drive.
IF one thing is out of place then your screwed.
Have the drunk one lift the drive in place while you guide the splined shaft though the hole.
It will go "so far" and then stop.
You now need to rotate the prop IN THE REVERSE direction to turn the drive to line up the splines.
Note! If you turn the prop in the "ratcheting" direction then it will pop out of gear!
Remember.... it MUST be in forward to be installed.
When the splines get aligned, the drive should slide on more.
Every so often a drive will slip right on and you will be done.
MOST often, the drive will stop just a little short of all the way.
IF the drive has stopped and seems stuck from going all the way on, you need to check something.
You NEED to confirm that the shift shafts are in the proper positions.
IF you force the drive on and the shafts are wrong OR the roller is not in the slide right then damage will occur.
After you are POSITIVE that the shafts are correct.... then a good kick can help.
I like to "bump" the drive on gently with a soft log.
Theoretically, if the splines are in good condition, and the engine is aligned, and the shafts are aligned, and the splined shaft is in good condition.....
then the drive will slide on easy. NOT always the case.
Be suspicious if the drive is hard to install.
Get one of the nuts tightened in place to hold the drive and let the drunk guy rest.
At this point, you have the drive mated up nice but the shift cable is NOT properly adjusted yet.
What you need to do, is confirm a few things.
Did you rip the gasket during the installation?
Did you loose any o-rings?
Did the roller stay in the slide?
Have your drunk friend climb back into the boat to test the shift.
Have him remove the drive cable and push the end in all the way while you turn the prop.
It should lock in one direction and ratchet in the other.
Then have him pull the end out a little till you get neutral.
If you get a smooth neutral then have him pull the cable out for a reverse test.
With the cable pulled out... rotate the prop again. It should lock in one direction and ratchet in the other.
IF you find that it's not shifting as above, then remove the drive and check it again.
Practice makes perfect.
If your right on the money then install the rest of the drive nuts and cylinders.
Cable Adjustment:
Remove the dash cable from the shift plate.
Adjust the stud in the slot to the bottom of the slot.
Push the drive cable inwards while someone locks the prop.
It is VERY important to make sure the prop is fully locked.
Measure the drive cable so you have a 6" distance between the hole at the end
and the brass barrel. (center to center!)
Adjust the brass barrel so it measures 6" center to center. Don't move it!
I sure hope that prop was locked in forward (the reverse direction).
Place the drive cable onto the shift plate assembly being careful not to move your 6" adjustment!
Now you have the drive in forward AND the shift plate is in forward too!
Adjust the plastic barrel on the dash cable to match the plate studs so the cable will go right on
without moving the shift plate or the drive cable.
Install the nuts and the cotter pins.
You can now do a static shift test.
Place the control in forward. The prop should lock in one direction and ratchet in the other.
Take a notice of the ratchet tension.
Now go into neutral. The prop should turn both ways free and no noise should be heard.
Shift into reverse and feel the ratchet tension. Also make sure you get a good "lock" in the other direction.
IF the reverse is weak in the ratcheting, then adjust the stud in the lever slide on the shift plate.
The final test is how it shifts in the water!
Just go out and have some fun.
IF you need to adjust the shift, ONLY adjust the DASH CABLE BARREL.
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